March 14: Cuzco

My travels actually began on March 13th, arriving in Lima right around midnight. My connecting flight to Cuzco wasn't until six in the morning on the 14th. Sadly, most people trying to go straight into the old city sort of get stuck in this situation where there's a lot of time to kill, but not quite enough to justify going into Lima and getting a room for the night. By the time you get settled in, you have to be back at the airport. So, you camp out in the terminal. It's not so bad, really. Jorge Chavez International Airport is safe and clean, and you'll never find yourself alone. Your best bet is to just bring a book, have some Inca Kola, and talk to other travelers. It's all worth it once you get in the air and find yourself skimming over the snow-capped peaks of the Andes.

Upon arriving in Cuzco, and after sweating out a final mid-flight turn that brings the wings of the plane far closer to the mountains than one would ever wish them to be, I was met outside the airport by Michelle, the owner of my Inca Trail tour company - Llama Path. Transfer to my hostel was included as part of my package, and I was treated to a nice little 2-cent tour of the city. Now, if you're young, hip, and don't mind a little noise, the best place to crash in Cuzco is Loki Hostel... which is located at the top of Cuesta Santa Ana. Going down into the main part of the city isn't a problem, but getting back up takes commitment. Or a cab.

Having not slept for nearly 24 hours, I checked into the hostel, drank down some coca tea to help with any altitude sickness problems, and crashed out in my five person dorm room (S/. 28). When I finally woke up, I trudged down the hill to visit Cuzco's famous Plaza de Armas. A lively square in the center of town, the plaza is a great place to just hang out, watch people, and maybe have yourself a little a sunburn. Surrounded by gorgeous colonial architecture, there isn't a shortage of cafes, restaurants, and religious sites to keep you busy while you gasp for air at 11,600 feet (3,535 meters). You also won't find a shortage of little kids trying to sell you goddamn finger puppets.

With the help of a particularly friendly Peruvian on the BigSoccer message boards, I knew well before arriving in Cuzco that there was going to be a Copa Libertadores match on this night between Cienciano (the home side) and Caracas FC. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Copa Libertadores, this is the South American soccer championship between the best club teams throughout the entire continent - sort of like the European Champions League. Having assembled a rather large group from the hostel, we set off for a 9:30pm kickoff at Estadio Garcilaso de la Vega. Outside the stadium we purchased tickets for S/. 16. One actually doesn't obtain a specific seat, but rather a specific section. Once you are inside, you can sit anywhere you want among the hard, concrete terraces that circle the picture-perfect pitch. On this night, the local supporters provided a far better performance than the players as Cienciano defeated the Venezuelan club in a sloppy 2-1 game. We celebrated our victory by throwing back beers at Paddy Flaherty's Irish Pub.

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