March 15: Cuzco

The hallmark sign of any truly great hostel is a bar with a view. Loki's fits the bill. With standard morning breakfast fare of bread, tea, and coffee, this upstairs room was the perfect place to meet other travelers or just have a beer at night while sitting by the fire. The kitchen also served nightly meals that, while I never managed to work one into my stay, I was told were quite good. Just off from the bar is a TV room and Internet room. Free internet is another modern-era hostel perk that separates the men from the boys.

I know it's strange to go on and on about some stupid hostel, but I found it quite impressive what the owners of Loki were able to do with this 450 year old house. The greatest thing about the whole place isn't even the architecture. It's the piping hot water that blasts out of their shower heads with such velocity that I fear it may have actually knocked ideas out of my head. A hot shower might not seem like much, but in certain parts of South America... it's royalty. My room is located, here, down in the middle with the open window. It gets cold at night in the Andes, but Loki's warm bed duvets certainly do the trick. And, with that, I'll stop singing their praises and let them do their own advertising. Besides, it's not all peaches and cream - it can get pretty loud at night. Of course, that's sorta why I stayed there.

With Peruvian elections being held on April 9th, campaigning was in full force. All throughout the cities and along painted rural walls, candidates, especially for President, were making their last efforts to win over voters. If I had a vote it would undoubtedly go to Javier Espinoza. I mean, just look at that poster. How can you not trust a guy giving you thumbs-up with a big toothy grin? Mark my words, Mr. Espinoza will soon be calling the shots. Interestingly, I learned that voting is mandatory in Peru, and failure to cast a ballot results in a fine. I don't exactly think forced democracy is the greatest idea, however I'm all in favor of voting day, in America, becoming a national holiday so that anyone who wants to be heard can enjoy the opportunity of going to the polls without having to ditch out of work. Viva Espinoza!

Leading up to my big hike on the Inca Trail, I spent this entire day relaxing by the plaza, exerting as little energy as possible. Norton Rat's Tavern, overlooking all the action, was a perfect place to throw down some more coca tea while diving into my book. Despite the wonderful medicinal qualities of the coca leaf, it remains illegal in the United States because, well, it can be turned into Cocaine. Of course, one could probably also take my pillow case, crush it up with a bunch of random chemicals, and blow lines of it off a mirror and get high... doesn't mean we shouldn't have pillow cases. Throughout my entire time spent at these super high altitudes, I never once felt altitude sickness. I think it only makes sense to attribute this to my constant consumption of coca tea. Not to support my government's policy, but it's possible that I developed a mild addiction to that sweet, hot water. Then again, it may have been the life-time supply of sugar I dumped into each mug.

Sure I had to be up at 6am to be picked up for the start of the Inca Trail, but what was the point in wasting a perfectly good evening? Here, with Emily from Denver, we shared a cold late-night cerveza by the upstairs fire after having a terrific Mexican dinner somewhere along one of the alleys just off of the Plaza de Armas. I find it a cruel reality of travel that, often, just when you start meeting some cool people to hang out with at the hostel it's time for you to move on down the road.

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